\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div> \t\t\t\t\tA look from the Des Phemmes spring 2026 collection.<\/span><\/p>\n \t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tCourtesy of Des Phemmes<\/cite><\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n \n\tYet the designer is not really after a drastic acceleration. \u201cEverybody is running like crazy, especially in terms of presentations and shows. I want to do the opposite, and go slow,\u201d he said. For one, he sat out the Milan Fashion Week frenzy, mindful that in a season of big debuts the attention span for a brand of Des Phemmes\u2019 size would have likely been drastically reduced. So Rizza skipped the presentation format of the past in favor of a tight selection of one-on-one appointments, mostly with retailers.<\/p>\n \n\t\u201cThe good thing of being a small label is that you have the flexibility to change your strategy and do whatever you feel like doing,\u201d said Rizza. \u201cIf you look around, there\u2019s this urge to shock at all costs. It feels like the real reason why we do what we do has got lost\u2026 For me it\u2019s about having a closer relationship with clients, it\u2019s all about that human aspect.\u201d<\/p>\n \n\tThat\u2019s why as of late he has been focusing on strengthening the bond with retail partners via capsule collections, events and special activations, as he did in the past with Moda Operandi, still one of the prime stockists of the brand.\u00a0<\/p>\n \t\t\t\t\t\t \t\t\t\t\tA look from the Des Phemmes spring 2026 collection.<\/span><\/p>\n \t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tCourtesy of Des Phemmes<\/cite><\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n \n\t\u201cThe thing is that there\u2019s a request for new and young brands abroad, they look for something different from what\u2019s on the market, something more niche and less easy to find,\u201d said Rizza, underscoring how such an inclination could benefit his brand.<\/p>\n \n\tHence the activation in the Marais, where Rizza will run his brand\u2019s first sales campaign in Paris from Friday to Oct. 6. The founder said that rather than opting for a multibrand showroom with antiseptic booths, he favored a location that he could customize. The concept of the facade is in sync with his aim to spark engagement and also doubles as an artistic intervention since it will change appearance as they days go by.<\/p>\n \n\tThe idea additionally nods to the voyeuristic inspiration of the Des Phemmes spring 2026 collection, which Rizza is teasing here but decided to officially reveal in its entirety in a few months, embracing a see-now-buy-now timing for the communication.<\/p>\n \t\t\t\t\t\t \t\t\t\t\tA look from the Des Phemmes spring 2026 collection.<\/span><\/p>\n \t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tCourtesy of Des Phemmes<\/cite><\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n \n\tFor the new collection, he referenced French artist Sophie Calle, who in 1981 took a job\u00a0as a chambermaid in a Venetian hotel and secretly photographed what guests left behind, creating a visual diary of unmade beds, scattered clothes and forgotten objects that revealed the different personalities of her anonymous muses.<\/p>\n \n\tThis was translated into disheveled effects and plenty of pajama sets rendered in different ways, from traditional silk twill and crisp poplin to those cut from taffeta or rich in geometric embroidery. While a\u00a0wallpaper photographed by Calle was turned into a key black-and-white print in the collection, with small bellflowers blossoming on shirts and pants, a flavor for Orientalism infiltrated Rizza\u2019s designs, inspired by some of Calle\u2019s snapshots.<\/p>\n \n\tA unisex shirt revisited the traditional Chinese qipao, while other silk dresses came also with crinkled effects, that were new for the brand. Staple embellishments like feathers, sequins and crystals galore were still profusely deployed to telegraph Rizza\u2019s signature penchant for feminine, statement adornments. A motif with a geometric mirror embroidery covering a white dress made for an addition to the theme.<\/p>\n \t\t\t\t\t\t \t\t\t\t\tA look from the Des Phemmes spring 2026 collection.<\/span><\/p>\n \t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tCourtesy of Des Phemmes<\/cite><\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n \n\t\u201cThe fun thing is that this brand was originally associated to tie-dye effects,\u201d recalled Rizza. \u201cBut I\u2019ve been constantly wondering how I can expand my language and create codes that can be recognizable on the long term and which are the categories we can potentiate.\u201d<\/p>\n \n\tHe first focused on dresses, also encouraged by increasing requests from celebrities. To wit, Rizza\u2019s creations have been donned by the likes of Dua Lipa, Lupita Nyong\u2019o,\u00a0Eva Longoria, Gwen Stefani and\u00a0Anne Hathaway, among others, in placements that have contributed to the brand\u2019s rise in popularity in the U.S.\u00a0<\/p>\n \n\tYet his\u00a0heavily embellished numbers\u00a0are finding competition from some of the more streamlined designs in the collection. \u201cCan you believe this dress was the bestseller?\u201d Rizza said as he showed a simple draped gown cut from chocolate-hued jersey.\u00a0<\/p>\n \t\t\t\t\t\t \t\t\t\t\tA look from the Des Phemmes spring 2026 collection.<\/span><\/p>\n \t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tCourtesy of Des Phemmes<\/cite><\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n \n\tTo be sure, more recently Rizza introduced jersey pieces as well as knitwear, leveraging the expertise of backer Olma and Mirta, which is best known for being a longtime business partner of Rick Owens. As reported, at the end of 2023 the Italian manufacturer\u00a0acquired a 45 percent stake\u00a0in Oasi Srl, the parent company of Des Phemmes. A 10-year licensing agreement was included in the deal, with Olmar and Mirta charged to support the brand both in terms of production and distribution.<\/p>\n \n\tThe operation set in motion a change of pace for the brand, and Rizza additionally added to the assortment, introducing Des Phemmes\u2019 first bag last season, after little tests in the form of sequined-embellished satin sachet bags last year.<\/p>\n \n\tAt the same time, the designer continued to expand the narrative around the label with tie-ups with historic pastry shop Cova and supporting British artist Rachel Hobkirk\u00a0by staging an exhibition in Milan and releasing the dedicated catalogue earlier this year.<\/p>\n \t\t\t\t\t\t \t\t\t\t\tA look from the Des Phemmes spring 2026 collection.<\/span><\/p>\n \t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tCourtesy of Des Phemmes<\/cite><\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n \n\t\u201cHer vision and exploration of femininity is very Des Phemmes. Plus for us it also represented a way to approach a new audience,\u201d said Rizza about the show, which marked his first step in promoting contemporary art.\u00a0<\/p>\n \n\t\u201cAt the end, this was the mission Des Phemmes was created for: to become a hub for female talents, not just providing clothes. This is how everything becomes much more interesting and stimulating, compared to merely selling stuff,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n \n\tRizza\u2019s feminine vision has been influenced by his professional beginnings at Giambattista Valli in Paris, which he joined after graduating in fashion design from Milan\u2019s Istituto Marangoni in 2011. Starting as an intern in the design team, he climbed the ranks over the span of five years to eventually oversee ready-to-wear and haute couture collections. Then Rizza returned to Milan to freelance for brands including Agnona, Max Mara and Emilio Pucci, before launching his brand in 2019.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" PARIS \u2014\u00a0A golden tin foil covering the facade of a space in the Marais and an invitation to passersby to rip it and peek inside are marking Des Phemmes\u2019 first steps in Paris. The Italian brand founded by Salvo Rizza is pivoting its attention to the French capital by setting up a temporary showroom at<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4912,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[27],"tags":[1495,226,913,1498,242,1496,1500,1497,1499,279],"class_list":{"0":"post-4911","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-fashion","8":"tag-des","9":"tag-fashion","10":"tag-international","11":"tag-marais","12":"tag-paris","13":"tag-phemmes","14":"tag-push","15":"tag-sets","16":"tag-showroom","17":"tag-week"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/thegloss.online\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4911","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/thegloss.online\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/thegloss.online\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thegloss.online\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thegloss.online\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=4911"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/thegloss.online\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4911\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thegloss.online\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/4912"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/thegloss.online\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=4911"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thegloss.online\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=4911"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thegloss.online\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=4911"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}![\"A](\"https:\/\/wwd.com\/wp-content\/themes\/vip\/pmc-wwd-2021\/assets\/public\/lazyload-fallback.gif\")
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